The Everyman image of a Mexican restaurant includes sombreros, serapes, and servers clad in peasant blouses. The folks at Ácenar (we have no explanation for the accent) took their inspiration instead from designers such as Alexander Girard and Charles and Ray Eames. Aficionados of amped-up mid-century modern will approve; those that aren’t in a glowing-nightclub kind of mood should probably opt for river’s edge outside.

In the beginning, when local super-chef Bruce Auden’s name was associated with the enterprise, it seemed Mod-Mex stood a chance, but that influence has faded like last year’s day-of-the-dead marigolds. Which doesn’t mean the food is bad. It does mean there’s no reason to pay downtown prices for “Tex-Mex favorites.” And that the more creative plates all carry an element of risk.< /p>

Crepas de huitlacoche, misleadingly labeled mushroom crêpes, are typical: they’re kinda good, with tender corn skin and just enough of the dauntingly black corn fungus to leave an exotic impression. Buttermilk-fried oysters on yuca chips are also of interest. An adobo-rubbed and grilled pork loin at least avoids the usual trap of dryness—yet the accompanying sweet potato tamal is unnaturally dense and the red and green sauces hardly distinctive.

The bar, however, has more than 30 premium tequilas. Añejo, anyone?