There was much wailing and rending of garments on the news that Earl Abel’s, a local landmark that had been serving up fabled fried chicken and other homey-hit-parade dishes since 1933, was to be demolished to make room for an apartment tower. What to do without Thursday’s Irish corned beef and cabbage or Saturday’s Salisbury steak? New owners rode to the rescue, moving to a strip center, alas, but keeping the menu largely intact. Yes, you can still get a plate of chicken livers.

We admit to never having much of a yen for salmon croquettes, but it did seem initially that much of the comfort had gone out of the food with the move. Yet lately there have been signs of new life. In a bold gesture, there’s new, spicy chicken. Niman Ranch steaks have been introduced. And Texas-raised bison burger has appeared on a sourdough bun—with sweet potato fries as an option. Strands of arugula have been spotted in salads, too. Now we find ourselves hoping these tweaks don’t become a major trend.

Probably not. “Meringue pies as big as a Miss Texas hairdo are deeply comforting to me,” mused one panelist, and comfort will always sell.