Pugnacious parkers jockying Suburbans, long lines to order, punishing noise levels, rambunctious rug rats running riot…what’s not to love?

The inspiration behind the big metal barn that is Big’z was über-chef Andrew Weissman, but the place is run by family members; it would be a mistake to think his hand is still much apparent—though we credit him for the inventive dips for fries (15 mayos and 10 ketchups) and the fact that there’s a wine list. Opinions on both burgers (the base is a half-pound Angus patty) and fries vary widely. We have always liked the fries and dips and find the Mexican vanilla milkshake magnificent—after meltdown. But the burgers, even at the default medium rare on an extra-price sourdough bun? Ehhhh…not bad but maybe better made sublimely “dirty” with a fried egg.

On the other hand: the first impression was the aroma of seasoning salt; it was difficult to detect any actual meat flavor; fries lacked crispness and were only a cut above the frozen, oven-baked variety; and serious burger aficionados should go elsewhere, according to one panelist. But maybe if you have kids, this is the place—assuming they will play outdoors where they belong.