This neighborhood’s bereft of Mexican options, but the one it does have is pretty good. We love the wood-shingled, cartoon-fonted nostalgia of the place, although the bars are a little dramatic, considering the family-friendly area. Inside, it’s bright and colorful, with a flatscreen TV showing fútbol or Mexican talk shows. The menu’s a Tejano mash up of tastes from both sides of the border. Hot tip: if it’s a soup, get it. Pozole is a marrow wonderland of spice and hominy; tortilla soup is full of heady herbs; look to the handwritten specials board for more. Enchiladas mexicanas come stacked three deep, teeming with salty, creamy queso fresco; any shredded chicken versions have tiny bits of cartilage and the dark-meaty flavor that suggests it came off a real bird recently. Tortillas are average, as are rice and soupy refried beans, but they serve the main event on your plate just fine. Sweet-spicy carne guisada and asado de puerco are well worth the flossing afterwards.

Street-sized tacos come filled with cabrito (moist but not goaty enough), lengua (fine, if a textural crapshoot), barbacoa (rich and velvety), tripas, chicharrones, and more. Although the flavors aren’t as defined or developed as our top-ranked Mexican joints, it’s a warm, filling, really cheap meal, with decent micheladas but predictably awful “winaritas.” Every neighborhood needs one.