More baffling than its name (the traditional sword used by Tuareg Berbers?) is why anyone would open yet another Mexican eatery on the East side. There are scores of authentic choices all over the city, and most are clustered here. But Takoba’s contribution is more cultural than culinary, meaning you can enjoy a decent chile relleno with a better margarita—the inverse of the neighborhood norm. You can also: attend a meet-up devoted to hipster design blog Apartment Therapy, watch fútbol with a lively and mixed young crowd, and apparently make reservations via Twitter, which Takoba is all over. Equally modern are its minimalist rooms (one of which is more bar-like and opens at 4pm), decorated simply with black-and-white portraits of Mexican folk.

Traditional dishes are mildly enhanced here, but aren’t overly ambitious. Fresh molcajete salsa complements a plate of good and rich birria, here made with lamb instead of goat, served with its delicious consommé. Still, it’s no better than cheaper, goatier versions. Carnitas are the best bang for your buck, infused with wood-smoke flavor; skip fish tacos made with somewhat mealy tilapia. The enjoyment-to-payment ratio adds up generally well here. But again, the value of Takoba is best taken as a whole—drink a Bloody Mary with ancho-infused vodka and pickled vegetables at midnight on the sandy patio, and you’ll understand.