Garrido’s patio, which overlooks a sometimes lovely part of Shoal Creek, is teeming both with young 360 residents, and more “established” fans of Jeffrey’s Part One, who are thrilled to have back David Garrido and his kicky, fruit-filled, Southwestern approach.
The atmosphere inside, compared to the luxuriant leaves of the high-perched patio, is a bit icy and overproduced. A conceited corner booth is partially guarded by a beaded curtain, and adorned with throw pillows. Who are they expecting? Lance? Sandy? They have their own hangouts, down the street.
The food’s more convincing: decent guacamole; a tart, limey, very well-balanced margarita; warm chips. But salsa is oddly sweet and thick, like marinara. The fried oysters made famous at Jeffrey’s are great, the oyster brine and honey-habanero aïoli beguiling together. But the sweet treatment doesn’t work across the board. Most tacos are much too fruity, like mango and shrimp, and al pastor with chewy, overcooked pork and shrill pineapple. Better are fresh, citric fish tacos, and chicken enchiladas filled with dark meat and covered lightly in a dried-chile sauce with judicious queso fresco. A chile relleno is not so charming, with strange chile skins, underseasoned rice, and metallic-tasting beans. But do order totally enjoyable ribeye tacos on that gorgeous patio in the early summer heat, and down a delicious margarita or two. That’s really anyone’s palate.
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