There may be a glut of good Mexican brunch options in Austin, but it’s rare to find a hot, delicious plate of birria in such a place, a stand-alone hut between bland strip malls. While tonier places are beginning to carry birria, they are usually using more menu-friendly lamb and charging almost twice as much for it. But the goat’s the whole point—a flavor that’s wild and primal, like angry sex. Don’t mention that metaphor to your server—they’ll understand the English just fine, but their sensibilities seem as innocent as the apricot-colored polka-dotted walls, and the piñatas and papier-mâché parrots that glow in the sunlight coming through the abundant windows.

Back to that goat: this heaping plate of braised, rich, shredded meat makes us weak in the knees. Take several ounces of it, stick it in a warm homemade corn tortilla with a sprinkling of raw onions and cilantro, and presto—more harmony than the entire Pet Sounds album and the Harlem Boys Choir combined. You can also order it as a cauldron-sized caldo. It’s only served Fridays through Sundays, though.

Beyond some serviceable pozole and a good Jalisco-style mixed grill, the menu mostly comprises your standard Tex-Mex fare, and can be skipped. Anything fried—tilapia, chips, flautas, and so on—taste chewy and stale. But you come for the goat, got it?