The new, cash-only taco stand that has opened in front of this restaurant’s permanent home has little charm aside from its hours (it’s open until 1am Monday and Tuesday, and 3am Wednesday through Saturday). But it’s in that cart where the eponymous al pastor is spit-roasted, even for orders going back to the restaurant behind it; the meat is transferred to the strip-mall kitchen for reheating. So, if you come for al pastor, expect it to be fresher, more tender, and better flavored from the truck—and, in either place, thankfully restrained on pineapple.

In terms of sitting down and eating, though, it’s the restaurant itself that’s more loveable, in that homely, friendly, slightly dingy, Mexican-soaps-on-the-TV sort of way. A local Hispanic crowd floods the place for decent but unspectacular renditions of northern staples like machacado (dried beef with egg) along with a standard lineup of authentic pan-Mex. Eggs tend to be overcooked, so go elsewhere for breakfast tacos; and don’t order Tex-Mex here—ask for queso and you’ll get a bowl of cold shredded cheese.

Instead, try the spectacular homemade flour tortillas with soft, sultry barbacoa; or fajitas, full of profound flavors of marinade and char. And oh, what beans, porky bits of goodness! Even the salsa, spicy yet sweetly vegetal, is a little miracle, as if fresh tomatoes had somehow been located in the middle of a Texas winter…which we will still brave to eat al pastor from that humble cart.