María María’s flashy entry into the downtown restaurant scene may have injected some young blood into the field, but the Warehouse District spot is definitely wrapped up in the youthful party scene that surrounds it. The rock-star attitude is predictable: the mini-chain (Austin is the fourth location to open) is a collaboration between musician Carlos Santana—thus the name of the restaurant—and a former Fonda chef.

The sleek, cavernous space is festooned with flickering faux candles which, taken together with the tableside guacamole ritual, really evokes Rosa Mexicano, the inventor of tableside guacamole (in—gasp!—New York). While María María once did a good job with Nuevo Mexican—that is, updated, fusionish Tex-Mex with the occasional regional Mexican touch—recent visits have found it pushing so-so status. Lately, meats have come out tough and dry, mole has lost its smoky kick, tortillas have been soggy, and seasoning has lacked. But big chunks of adobo-marinated pork carnitas and pickled onions are still pretty delicious with a creamy black-bean sauce and an array of bright salsas, including a verde that really pops. Also nice are a creamy tomatillo tortilla soup redolent of cilantro, and braised short ribs in a rich blackberry mole. Best of all, perhaps, are vegetarian enchiladas filled with a wonderfully complex wild mushroom mixture; their creamy roasted tomato sauce may be a touch too sweet, but it agreeably complements the woodsy vegetables.