While Austin’s taco market becomes inundated with variations on the Tex-Mex and street-Mex theme, there remains a curious dearth of fish tacos for a city so open-minded and warm. Fish tacos are really a SoCal and Baja California Norte thing (where they are more often fried). The fish at Wahoo’s, however, comes grilled or blackened—a concession to health-conscious Californians that works well here too (less so blackened: we’re too close to Cajun country for this meager blackened spicing to pass muster). We love the grilled versions, which come with a sprinkle of cheese and slaw—these feel like health food next to the loads of queso and chile con carne we’ve been Hoovering all over town. If you’re looking for something more substantial but equally wholesome, order your fish as a bowl with rice and black beans.

Inside each Wahoo’s is a cheesy, too-bright, and dizzying recreation of a SoCal beachside shack. But the Warehouse location has a little patio that’s a great place to watch the world go by (or if not here, you can order tacos to be delivered to you at neighboring Key Bar, which has better margaritas); and we’re happy to now be able to take a fish-taco break from South Congress shopping. The staff is cheerful and chill, like any SoCal surfer…or any Austinite, for that matter.