The original citrus-colored shack on Manor is, once again, the only remaining branch in town. Locals still like to sit at the brightly painted picnic tables in the sun, or in a screened-in area that, on cool autumn nights, provides Mexican blankets for warmth.

For a long time, this rag-tag little place had an impressive array of tacos, but as more and more food trucks populate the city parking lots, it’s not as hard to come by great, authentic tacos as it once was. Fillings at El Chilito are comparatively much sweeter (you certainly can’t deny they’re flavorful), and corn tortillas are horribly crumbly. Our favorite at lunch is still a cochinita pibil—tender, juicy pulled pork braised in aromatic orange and achiote, complemented by bright pickled onions. But follow it up with a spicy chipotle-flavored tinga taco, or carne guisada, and you might experience palate overload. The roasted-chile salsa here helps balance the thick-gravied sweetness. El Chilito also offers vegetarians an alternative to the usual beans and cheese. A “Vegetal” taco has sweet-spiced (if a little mushy) squash, peppers, and mushrooms.

Even though we find ourselves only coming for breakfast tacos anymore (best with chorizo, by the way), there’s something about the candy colors, the Mexican Cokes and aguas frescas and paletas that gives this place a very real and winning vibe.