This polarizing Tex-Mex taquería enjoys both a cult following and an inexplicable flooding of the market: its breakfast tacos are sold at cafés and markets all over town, and it’s added a central location to its holdings far north and far south. Queues plague Tacodeli at breakfast and lunch. But these tacos run up to $3.50 each, and none are as simply, soulfully delicious as at our best Mexican places.

Don’t look for lengua, barbacoa, or anything else of that ilk. As the place’s name would suggest, these tacos, tortas, and quesadillas are like Sarah Palin’s take on the Jarabe Tapatío. A “Frontera Fundido”—chicken or sirloin with poblano pepper, onion, and cheese—is touted as Tacodeli’s signature taco, but we think it tastes like a gravied Luby’s dinner. “Adobados” features slightly dry chicken marinated in adobo that has an oddly strong herb mix reminiscent of Provençal France.

But al pastor is enjoyable and rarely dry, and is especially good on the soft torta roll. Pretty much everyone we ask says they love Tacodeli mostly for its breakfast tacos and salsas—a somewhat redundant answer, considering even the best breakfast tacos are mostly just a vehicle for salsa. And this salsa is good, especially the superhot and creamy “Doña.” We’ve been known to order a taco here just to put some of it on top.