Habanero Café is one of our favorite Mexican standbys, especially for the weekend soups, including best-in-class pozole and menudo. Throw in a deep, rich, salty, magically restorative caldo de res, and this is one of the best places in South Austin for brunch.

Beef “fajitas al mesquite” are touted in hand-painted letters on the outside of the cute, old building, and have a dark crust blessed with lots of spice, wood-fired smoke, and (in the case of “rancheras”) welcome heat. The beef has come out tough and chewy on a couple of recent visits, but the flavor still rocks.

Don’t overlook the Tex-Mex: whether breakfast tacos, migas, enchiladas rojas, or enchiladas verdes, with the acidic bite of tomatillo smoothed well by a bit of white cheese. Delicious, too, are gorditas (with lettuce, tomato, and pico de gallo inside grilled masa cakes). Deeply red al pastor has a matching depth of flavor; lengua comes in large, lean chunks, with a less assertive, but still comforting familiar flavor; barbacoa is tender and tasty. What’s so great about Habanero is the easy mix of Mexicans, cowboys, and South Austin weirdos, all with equal appreciation for various facets of this kitchen’s expertise.

This is not a date place, nor a happy hour one—it’s just one that effortlessly, compellingly bridges Texas with Mexico.