Named for a beach in El Salvador, El Zunzal educates newcomers with cheery maps painted on the walls and Central American travel posters. The front area is bright blue and orange, and smiling fútbol heroes hang from Bud Light flags everywhere, soundtracked by either music on the jukebox, or the dramatic chattering of Univision soaps. Service is fast and friendly, and a working knowledge of Spanish is certainly helpful.

As is a working knowledge of Salvadoran food. Pupusas are the Salvadoran staple, found all across the country, from the dingiest food stalls to the most upmarket restaurants. They’re essentially stuffed masa pancakes, crisply griddled and filled with some combination of chopped-up chicharrones, beans, slightly congealing cheese, and/or loroco—the pickled buds of a Central American plant. The grease requires lots of tart pickled cabbage curtido and salsa, but be careful: it’s filled with the creeping heat of habaneros. Tamales de elote (corn) taste microwaved and need a boost from crema salvadoreña (like a thinner sour cream). Pastelitos de carne remind us of crisp but greasy empanadas filled with ground beef and rice.

The Mexican dishes are not as good, by any means. Instead, stick with pupusas and a can of Famosa or a forty of Regia from the well-stocked cooler.