Costa del Sol is one of our few Salvadoran eateries, more of an invaluable font of culinary heritage than a brilliant diamond in the rough that the urban food-obsessed are forever in hopes of finding. The place certainly has no sparkle to speak of: housed in an old fast-food joint behind a gas station, its tables have that laminate stickiness that comes after years of being pawed. The restaurant also offers diners a romantic view of Highway 183.

But nevermind all that, what you’re here for are pupusas, masa cakes hot off the griddle. Our favorites are revueltas, stuffed with chicharrón, beans, and cheese; throw some of the house-made curtido (a pickled slaw of mainly cabbage) on top, and you’ve got the ultimate Salvadoran street food. We also like pollo encebollado, featuring browned chicken cooked in a pile of sweet onions and tomatoes, served with rice, beans, and tortillas. Mojarra frita (deep-fried fish) has a chewy batter and needs salt, but beneath the crust, the fish is tender and moist, and, when brightened with a squeeze of lime, wraps nicely with some grilled onions and sliced avocado into a tortilla. But for best results, take some pupusas home, hopefully to a better view, and crack a Salvadoran beer.