The new Buenos Aires Café in the Galleria is well designed and shiny; whereas the slightly older East Austin one has that charming, slightly more lived-in look; it’s modern, but full of character. Either would make a good lunch or merienda, as the Argentines call the late-afternoon break, with terrific espresso, or yerba mate served in the traditional mate gourd, and medias lunas (buttery croissants).

At dinner, that space is romantic, a study in browns and textiles with flattering lighting and a lively buzz. But don’t come expecting Argentine-style grilled meats; this is a more intricate and subtle side of the cuisine. We’re fans of the four different flavors of gnocchi served in a bowl with artichoke hearts and haricots verts. Empanadas have great, balanced fillings, even if the “picante” isn’t really, and a milanesa (breaded, fried beef cutlet) is totally correct, with or without the addition of marinara sauce and cheese.

Only a few missteps keep Buenos Aires from greatness: side vegetables come overcooked and withered, and long-opened wines are overpoured into huge goblets. Although appropriately Argentine, the wine list has little stylistic variation. Sweets, though, are the café’s best work and include alfajores (cookies layered with dulce de leche and sometimes coated in chocolate), and delicious panqueques (crêpes) with creamy dulce de leche that infatuates the palate with crispy, doughy sweetness.