We’re not fans of Güero’s food, so why is it one of our recommended places to eat in town? Location, location, location. Everyone that lands at Austin Bergstrom Airport has been hipped to Güero’s, either by the captions beneath Bill Clinton’s paparazzi photos, or just by virtue of it being a stalwart of tourism pamphlets—which means two things: 1.) Great people-watching and a vibrant buzz at all hours, and 2.) Curt, charmless service and long waits. In nice weather, the sidewalk seating’s right in the middle of a South Congress stream of hipsters, tourists, dogs, and vagabond musicians—which, coupled with the view straight up to the Capitol, is an 11 on the ecstasy scale.

Margaritas are limey-tart, if that’s your thing (and they’re quite small). But if you’re looking for a great Mexican dinner, leave after you’ve gotten your buzz on. Queso is runny and bland, and “Güero’s Dip”—with its cold, bland layers of beans, guac, and plain shredded cheese—is like your untalented neighbor’s potluck offering. The Mexican ladies rolling tortillas in the middle of the dining room are certainly convincing, but these come crumbly, dry, and not all that corny. Fillings, at worst, are overcooked and chewy; at best, just okay. Salsa helps, but watch out for the strange surplus of surcharges. Smoky-sweet fajitas are pretty good; we’ll choke them down sometimes just to be here.