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Fearless Critic restaurant review
Austin
Food
Feel
Price
5.6
8.5
$10
Mexican
Counter service

Hours
Mon 7:00am–3:00pm
Tue–Thu 7:00am–9:00pm
Fri 7:00am–10:00pm
Sat 8:00am–9:00pm
Sun 9:00am–2:00pm

Features Live music, outdoor dining
Bar Beer, wine, liquor
Credit cards Visa, MC, AmEx

www.tacoxpress.com

South Lamar
2529 S. Lamar Blvd.
Austin, TX
(512) 444-0261
María’s Taco Xpress
Everyone should visit this South Austin cultural center—and hey, there’s food!

Hippie Church. Every Austinite has either gone to this because an out-of-town visitor gleefully insisted, or they still go almost devoutly every Sunday to dance in non-denominational ecstasy to live gospel music. It is a sight to behold and truly one of the most authentically South-Austin experiences around.

This spectacle takes place at María’s Taco Xpress, one of Austin’s homegrown hits identifiable by the giant, iconic María statue (a replacement, actually, when the first had its arms, horrifyingly, hacked off). It’s the kitschy embodiment of all that is South Austin holy.

Tacos are usually quite good, but the execution flags, depending on the day. Barbacoa and al pastor can be tender and flavorful, or somewhat unseasoned and dry. Ditto for pollo guisado (pulled, stewed chicken). Skip any of the chewy grilled veggie options, like the “Verde:” onions, peppers, beans, eggplant, and mushrooms.

Like at any middling taquería, breakfast tacos are the best order here: the eggs pick up the flavors from other foods cooked on the griddle. Gorditas are sliced in half to form greasy but delicious sandwiches with any number of fillings. Drown everything in María’s chimichurri sauce; it wakes everything up with its spicy, tangy kick. Should you need an evening reason to check it out, 99-cent taquitos at happy hour ought to do it.