People pack this place for relatively cheap, decent renditions of what’s commonly called “interior Mexican” (to distinguish it from Tex-Mex, which makes only a cameo at Curra’s). They love its famous, thick avocado margarita and festive labyrinth of rooms. They love its personality-peppered, sticky menu; in warm weather, they fill the bland patio with the dull view of Oltorf.

At brunch, egg dishes are uniformly strong—huevos con machacado, although with tough and stringy meat, has a sousy borracho sauce full of earthy chile. Red or white corn tortillas are average, and there’s a good amount of grease in the food to smooth over the previous night’s indiscretions. Highly touted Oaxacan coffee has lately tasted like burner—aim for a fresh pot.

Cochinita pibil’s shredded pork is meltingly tender and hinting of cinnamon. Much better than other, pricier versions, it comes with fried plantains, black beans, rice, and tartly pickled onions that are a beautiful bright purple. Seafood dishes tend to be weak, sometimes coming out overcooked, and sometimes not as fresh as we’d like. A chile relleno’s lovely pecan cream sauce mellows the bitter poblano notes. Queso flameado, with melted jack cheese, roasted poblano strips, and chorizo, is a delicious appetizer; and tortilla soup is as good as they come. The overall package, however, is positively iconic.