The mascot of the cubicle-escapee happy hour is Baby A’s purple margarita—a crime that carries its own punishment. In fact, much of the menu here is taken up by Technicolored drinks, and foods whose descriptions send off warning flares faster than an Air Force One escort. Consider the menu’s blithe claim to “proudly serve only Land-o-Lakes cheeses”—much of it is awful. An appetizer platter runs the gamut from mouth-clogging cream-cheese-stuffed jalapeños to deep-fried spinach bites, and is anything but appetizing; chile con queso is grossly underseasoned, without any chile kick. We recommend you attempt to stay away from dishes that include cheeses or sauces. Baby A’s al pastor is rather bland, with fatty meat and chunks of caramelized pineapple—a squeeze of lime helps. Tortilla soup isn’t great, but it’s probably your best bet. Regular margaritas are extremely sweet—you might have to order very specifically to get a good one.

The IH-35 location of Baby A’s looks like a strip club, with pink neon lights; better known is the prominent spot on Barton Springs Road’s hallowed Restaurant Row, and it’s bright and pleasant enough to make you forget that you’re eating at a restaurant with a cartoon pachyderm grinning drunkenly at you. After a purple margarita, you might find yourself grinning right back.