Say what you will about this broadening enchilada empire, it feels like a fun night out, and it beats most other Tex-Mex happy hours by miles. Not that you’ll remember, given how strong these margaritas and Mexican martinis are. The latter have better flavor than the margarita, which can be a little soapy-sweet.

The endless mid-century paraphernalia, which is oddly heavy with Elvis overtones, is carefully done up with Disney-esque detail, and visitors—even in Dallas and Houston—feel like they’re being treated to that patented Austin “weird,” without as much of the gross falseness of national chains like Buco di Beppo. Obviously, it feels more legit at the Zilker original. The food is also somehow best here, and then worsens with distance. The queso (which you can serve yourself for free out of a faux-’50s-car hood during happy hour) is the creamy, intense best of its kind, while Hatch green chile enchiladas (during Hatch season in fall) hit just the right balance of Tex and Mex. Sauces are a bit uneven from branch to branch—North Lamar’s tomatillo is insipid and watery, and 183’s proximity to the suburbs may be to blame for a creamy jalapeño that bears an uncanny resemblance to only slightly peppery ranch. Dry chicken seems to be a universal problem, but beef fajitas are usually well seasoned, remarkably tender, and come with tasty flour tortillas. Tastier with strong drinks.