Most of Table 219’s dinner menu is inspired by the type of generally regrettable American recipes that monied Gen-Xers would feel the need to “reimagine”: sloppy Joe sliders, “nachos” with duck confit, corn dogs made with chicken andouille sausage, a gourmet version of a ding dong.

None of the above is meant to imply that this is a bad restaurant. Some of this stuff is actually pretty delicious, and if Table 219 had had the garlic-bacon deviled huevos to stick with their gimmick till the end of the menu, we could certainly join in on the fun.

But tonally, this restaurant is all over the place. The other half of the menu is very un-ironic, with ambitious Pacific Northwest preps like Coho salmon with pea vine purée. The drink menu actually employs the word “pometini.” And the space is entirely too earnest and corporate-looking for corn dogs, no matter how beautifully they’re plated.

All of that said, the brunch here rocks. French toast is soaked overnight before being griddled, and Table 219’s version of the Denny’s Grand Slam (the “Seattle Slam”) is just right: pancakes are fluffy, eggs are done the way you like, the bacon is carefully cooked to temperature. This dish is the only one with a funny callback; the rest of the menu is a mix of traditional favorites, like a great eggs Benedict, and dressed-up omelettes (chorizo, potato, and Manchego, for example). Simple, savory, and delicious. Now, was that so hard?