St. Cloud’s has all its bases covered. The menu is divided into “Home for Dinner” (unadulterated comfort food like ribs, roast chicken, and burgers) and “Out for Dinner” (slightly more adventurous fare, like an appetizer of grilled bread with goat cheese and caramelized onions). The best of the comfort-food mains is the garlic fried chicken with mashed potatoes; the best of the “out” is the tender, Parmesan-crusted pork tenderloin over pasta—so ‘80s, but so good. A simple fudge sundae, made with coconut ice cream and homemade fudge sauce, is the best way to end a meal.

Brunch is even simpler, though also divided up into “Standards” like eggs, waffles, and pancakes, and “Not So Standards” like chicken-fried steak and the “Imperial Mix Up,” a favorite egg scramble with rice, scallions, ginger, and either marinated tempeh or Portuguese sausage.

St. Cloud’s is a popular neighborhood spot: the menu is short and straightforward, and the space is family-friendly. On most nights there’s live music: jazz, soul/funk, or singer/songwriter sessions. Although the skill levels of performances vary, the whole package is more inviting than the similar but pricier experience offered at Serafina. And if you’re live-music-averse, the piano bar area is nicely separated from the main dining room.