Could it be? A pub in Pioneer Square that doesn’t cater to the lowest common denominator? (Drunks puking in the square on Saturday night, you know who you are.)

Why, yes! Although Collins sees its share of post-game revelry, the kitchen takes itself very seriously, and the fresh, constantly evolving menu makes for some of the best pub grub in town.

Steaks and burgers are highlights, but Collins Pub also does a good job with fish, unusual within its genre. Most of it is sourced from Pike Place Market. Sides, which can be as straightforward as mashed potatoes and braised greens or as Northwest-y as foraged mushrooms, local mixed greens, and leek cream, deserve a special note—they balance out the main dish well both in flavor and portion size.

The beer list focuses on Northwest and Belgian brews, with many high-end internationals. There aren’t many places in town where the staff can walk you through the brewing differences between various German wheat beers, or talk about the Trappist monks’ beermaking process.

Although it has a bit of a canned, contemporary sheen—a lot of dark woods and glowing amber lights—Collins is ultimately a friendly neighborhood pub where patrons might hunker down in a booth to play board games if they’re not at the bar cheering on the Mariners or the Seahawks.