Agua Verde rents kayaks to anyone who wants to paddle around Portage Bay, which means its café would do a swift business even if all it served were day-old Tostitos and pre-mixed margaritas. So, kudos to Agua Verde for using fresh ingredients and giving a fig about sustainable sourcing, which certainly helps elevate the fish tacos (the best thing on the menu) and some of the daily specials (carne asada in particular) above fast food. Yams and spinach are employed to add some depth to standard bean burritos, and the mangodilla (quesadilla with mango, poblano chilies, and scallions), though very, very wrong in principle, is a tasty alternative to a limp grilled cheese smothered in salsa and guac.

The problem is, no matter how hard it tries, Agua Verde can never get its food far enough above fast-casual levels. Points are also deducted for long lines, practically nonexistent service, and an interior that has little charm, despite some loud artwork and paint.

Points are generously redistributed, however, for the deck, which is simply a great place to sit by the water on a beautiful day. And the margaritas are also pretty kick-ass, especially the toronja (grapefruit) variety.