Le Gourmand is one of those little neighborhood restaurants that you might drive by for years and wonder, “Who eats there?” But then one day, you try to make a reservation, and you’re denied for the day of your request. That’s when and you realize something must be going on inside.

Perhaps overshadowed by Sambar, which hipsters are hitting with great glee (the two share a kitchen), Le Gourmand is a Seattle institution that’s recently been renovated. The new space is no longer stuck with décor from a century ago; it’s now contemporary yet comfortable, unless you object to the eyes of the puppets that hover above you while you dine.

Chef Bruce Naftaly has been going at it for 25 years, but this is French fare still worth checking out. The meats may be simple, but Naftaly is a master of sauces, which adorn many of the menu items here. Simple, ingredient-focused preps work well, too. The “AQ” (as quoted) salad epitomizes the place: at our last visit, the locally foraged ingredients were fresh and the dressing delightful, but at quite a cost for a plate of mostly uncooked vegetables. If you’re willing to open your wallet to such prices, we’d recommend the tasting menu with wines to match.