June had some big shoes to fill when it occupied the former space of Cremant, and judging by how little the space has changed—the concrete walls, banquette seating that looks like you’re settling down on a slab of sheet metal, and the gray color scheme are still there—June just kind of settled right in, no shoehorn required. It’s a little spare, but there are a few ennui-lifting spring-green accents, and the restaurant is nicely elegant.

Although the menu may seem like the usual rustic/seasonal/French hodge-podge, this kitchen is doing things a wee bit differently. It’s on the cutting edge of nose-to-tail food fad-dom with its most talked-about dish: lamb’s neck over egg noodles. And while “rustic” in many restaurants amounts to “extra-chewy bread,” June leaves the vertebrae in the lamb’s neck and the ribs in the roasted rabbit (which, incidentally, comes with a side of the bunny’s liver).

Not everything on the dinner menu is inspired. Pan-roasted chicken with fiddlehead ferns? Snooze. The brunch menu, on the other hand, is fit for Louis XIV: think lamb stew with a fried egg, duck hash, house-made chocolate doughnuts with pecan-caramel sauce.

Vegetarians take note: although mains are meat-heavy (you might have to make do with farro or gnocchi), June has you covered with great veg-friendly apps, like lightly-charred grilled yams, asparagus-nettle vichyssoise, and chilled corn soup with strawberry relish.