Driving along Walzem Road can be a visually depressing experience, but a stop at the Fishland Fish Market will pick you right up.

The over-the-counter antidote offered here is the Southern-fried fish turned out by several Asian women. No, really—the food could make you swear you were in the Deep South eating catfish and hush puppies made by your mama. Or somebody’s mama. But why stop at catfish, when sole, drum, tilapia, whiting, and more are available—all perfectly breaded and seasoned before being fried to a crispy fare-thee-well and served in a spotless-seeming place that has no lingering fish odor.

The fried oysters are old-fashioned, with a touch of their natural liquor keeping them moist. Even better are the shrimp, though there’s a slight drawback here: there just never seems to be enough of them. A combo basket of several pieces of fish and shrimp is highly recommended. It comes with solid fries and a fresh romaine salad. Nor should you overlook those hush puppies, which are likely the best in the city; they have just the right amount of onion to give them an extra kick. Plus, they are cooked thoroughly and in hot enough oil that they crunch when you bite into them, without being greasy.

Everything is made to order, so be prepared to wait. There are only a few tables, and the chairs are not all overly comfortable, so the to-go option (you can call ahead) is something to consider.