Tommy Moore cut his culinary teeth at Church’s Fried Chicken and then went on to outstrip the chain—at least in quality. He’s also been the publisher of The San Antonio Informer, a “black information source and resource.” Put together southern eats and neighborhood information and the result is the ultimate chat ‘n chew, all housed in a surprisingly snazzy envelope in which well-organized displays of local luminaries and historic happenings compete with cornbread muffins for attention.

So, yes, we like the chicken; the pork chop, too, is the essence of elemental home cooking. A moist meatloaf topped with tomato sauce can also be recommended, as can the braised cabbage and the black-eyed peas, both happy with ham hock. Chunky mashed potatoes with honest gravy? Yes. Collard greens rock. But the biscuits? Not so much; they seem sturdy to us, but are good foils for honey and butter spread. (They are also featured at breakfast embellished with either cream or sausage gravy.) The green beans are invariably overcooked compared to today’s relentlessly crunchy criteria. We can do without the un-ironic mac ‘n’ cheese; same goes for the candied yams that would seem to be a no-brainer—at least we find the cinnamon too strong, the sweetness cloying.

Anybody can appreciate peach cobbler. And though we found its spicing more subtle than the yam’s, we weren’t convinced by the crust; this could be where a biscuit topping would shine, but now we’re getting into perilous territory. Maybe go for banana pudding instead.