Go for happy hour: there’s an active buzz of after-work indulgers from 4–7, and prices are way cheaper for a variety of apps and drinks. At some point during your dine-and-drink you, your date/drinking buddy, and dinner will all be accented by overhead spots. Wildfish is big on chiaroscuro drama, drama that includes the Sharkosaurus skeleton looming over the central bar. Moby drinks are implied.

And even at happy hour, those drinks are both large and good. The excellent Bombay Sapphire martini, undiminished despite being half price, is served in a shaker. The equally well-priced lobster bisque is poured into a heated bowl from a copper pan; it’s luxurious without being really exquisite—yet, at the price…An order of “Crispy Cahsew Calamari” gets its luxury from both size and sheer chutzpah: the calamari are tender, if bland, but the entourage of crispy rice noodles, blazing red chiles, cashews, soy-ginger dressing, and more is riotous. Previously, the “all-lump” crab cakes have been excellent. We desperately hope they remain so.

Past experience also revealed Wildfish’s near-fanatical obsession with super-heated plates, and that, at least, remains consistent. But what we tolerate with a thick cut of Pacific ahi is less to be countenanced with the beautifully crusted lemon sole in a lovely lemon-butter sauce; first bites are on the edge of overcooked, subsequent ones get more and more so.

As for dessert, drink it. There’s a very good wine list, and if it’s still before seven, well…