Zinc began as a Champagne and wine bar with a little food to keep the belly bolstered, and the wine list remains one of the most eclectic and rewarding downtown. Over the years, though, the food side of the equation has become more equal; accordingly, the name has morphed into Bistro and Wine Bar. Shared plates such as the unctuous “Faux Gras” of chicken liver and the “2-Alarm Hummus” with roasted serranos remain reliable; even escargots with Pernod pass muster. But we are sorry to report that the ubiquitous calamari have invaded the menu—even if they are fried with jalapeños and served with an escabeche and spicy tomato aïoli.

More substantial favorites include the rare lamb sandwich with grilled onions and peach chutney, and the Gulf blue crab cakes, a crossover from Boudro’s, Zinc’s proud parent. But the current darling of the drink-and-dine crowd is the “Zinc Burger.” “Some regulars call it the ‘crack burger’,” confided a waitress one evening. We think we’d downgrade to a misdemeanor level offense. Yes, the bun is ballsy, the patty is perfection and the parmesan tuille a tony touch, but we were put off by a slice of smoky cheddar that was merely warm and a spicy aïoli that lacked spunk. The fries with house-made ketchup rock, however.

In amenable weather, try to score a table in the intimate courtyard; it’s unique in San Antonio. At any time, a seat along the arc of the bar is not a bad thing; yes, it really is zinc.