The Florio family has mellowed out since first coming to SA from New Jersey; there’s now barely a hint of the lip that one was likely to get on ordering. This is sad in a sense; it accords too much credence to the leveling power of Texas hospitality—and diminishes the mythic quality of The Sopranos and their sort. But pennants and posters emblazoned with logos of the Knicks, Nets, and Jets make it clear where allegiances still lie; the superb, thin-crust pizza has endured; and the appeal of being able to order, say, three slices with three different toppings is magnetic.

We normally stick with two, however, and their success depends as much on your topping selections as anything else. We can report that mushroom and pepperoni make a perfect pair—both rustic and just a little sophisticated. (So the mushrooms are canned—what did you expect?) Sliced meatball with red bell peppers and onion is a slightly mellower combination, so feel free to add pepper flakes. As your consigliore, we counsel steering clear of the garlic powder in a table-top shaker.

We have been, and remain to this day, less thrilled with subs such as the eggplant parmigiana. The bread is frankly lousy, and the filling, though ample, needs more moxie. But if Patty’s chocolate cake retains its take-no-prisoners attitude, it can easily erase latent memories of sub-par subs. Just as dessert often is required to do.