Somehow, even when founding chef Mark Bliss lent Silo a certain ski-bum glamour, it always seemed second to places such as Bruce Auden’s Biga—even though Bliss trained with Auden. And the “elevated cuisine” has had its ups and downs. We couldn’t name the current chef to save our lives, but we can say this: if a recent meal is an indication, the trend is decidedly up.

The presentation of a small plate serving of “spicy black beef” lettuce wraps in layered radicchio and bibb lettuces was stunning, the flavors of hoisin, oyster sauce, and chili bolstered the tender beef perfectly, and we wished only for more mint. A big-plate serving of fresh ricotta gnocchi with braised duck ragout was equally handsome, the components deftly considered: baby arugula, shavings of parmesan, a few drops of balsamic…all this over pillowy ricotta, sliced crimini mushrooms and tender duck. Hey, so impressed were we that dessert was even ordered—an almost too-cute serving of dark chocolate truffle mousse with salted caramel sauce, vanilla bean whipped cream, and cocoa nibs. It was a chore to push part away. And all of this at lunch.

The place looks better at night, however, when the downstairs bar isn’t mute and dark.