Sure it’s a hotel, but a handsome hotel with a soaring atrium, a lobby bar with classic and creative cocktails, a restaurant with decorative details recalling the Barcelona of Gaudí, and seductive seating on the River Walk. The food could be almost secondary. Happily, it’s not.

We’re especially pleased to find small plates that (a) don’t break the bank and (b) may actually stimulate the appetite. Pickled vegetables in an herbed aïoli, tangerine-marinated Spanish olives, and meatballs with Sherry pan drippings and patatas bravas are among the usual offerings, and the patatas, topped with shaved, fried leeks and served with a garlic harissa, are to be cherished.

Larger plates may not hew so closely to the Spanish theme, though a grilled rib-eye is served with Manchego-laced potatoes. We would nonetheless leap on an almost-traditional cocido (stew) of Cornish game hen served in an enameled cocotte. Okay, the Spaniards would use a tough ol’ hen and 86 the pine nuts in favor of classic chickpeas, but the idea survives. Grab it or the zarzuela a la catalana while you can.

And take advantage of a wine list that offers “splash” servings of its Spanish and other wines. Más vinos españoles, please.