We think they could have kept the super-scale sombrero—maybe adding a ten-gallon tassel to ease the transition from fast-food Mexican to Middle Eastern. But no, decapitation. Oh well; at least the food is better.

The huge pieces of flatbread that arrive almost as soon as you have placed your order at the counter are super-scale, too, and the zatar-seasoned olive oil accompanying it is equally bigger than life. The bread is great with smoky baba ganoush and the nutty hummus, essential with the very garlicky chicken shawarma, and even good as a way of making otherwise boring (admit it) falafel interesting by piling the patties into a floppy bread along with the accompanying pickles, turnip, and tahini.

Bread also benefits most of the large and easily shareable main plates, including the very good sheesh tawook kabob of moist chicken breast and the “Pasha Kabob Combo” of beef tenderloin and koobideh (ground beef) kabobs. Don’t be shy about sprinkling on tart sumac powder. But we would let the lemon-and saffron-marinated Cornish hens speak for themselves; the seasonings are subtle. Most mains also come in wrap form, a touch of gristle in the beef shawarma the only recent complaint.