You’d think that Jerusalem Grill, tucked into the elbow of a strip center and flanked by recruiting offices of the U.S. military, might have resorted to a super-defiant version of its Middle Eastern cuisine merely in self defense. But no: like most such local restaurants, it seems to have gravitated towards a generalized rendition for the American palate; the menu claims Persian, Greek, and Turkish dishes as well.

Nonetheless, this is the best of breed locally. Quality is high and consistent—even on the cafeteria line, which offers dishes (we’ve had a rich and satisfying lamb stew) not listed on the menu. The vegetarian platter with falafel, baba ghanoush and more is the best meatless meal in town. Hummus (hommos to them) is thick, intense, and good; it alone brings us back. (The tabbouleh occasionally misses its advertised mint, however.) The satisfying chicken schawarma, cooked on a hollow cone and sauced with tahini, garlic, yogurt, and lemon, is straightforward; there are no crazy twists on the traditional. The cinnamon-spiked kafta kebab, which can be had in a sandwich as well as on a plate, is another winner. In short, we’ve never had a bad meal here.

On Saturday nights, Middle Eastern films are projected onto a screen in their “courtyard,” packing the place with an international crowd. Then, the recruiting offices are also closed, adding to the air of non-militarized detente.