Kohinoor’s dazzlingly fluorescent, food-court-like décor is not an invitation to linger, but that will fade in the face of the food. Know this: the Pakistani menu is more aspirational than it is factual. Now know this: put yourself firmly in the hands of the owner-chef (via the family member that will take your order)—especially if his daily special is goat liver curry. (We aren’t kidding here.)

Pakoras and samosas should always be available, however, and they are both sturdy, subtle, and served with Pakistan’s version of a cucumber and yogurt raita. Should pickled goat be available, do not hesitate; its flavor comes from a sauce with pickled chilies and other condiments. Yes, it can be bony, but just get messy. We have also liked the tandooresque chicken boti, tawa-style tilapia fillets with sliced potato in a lusty gravy, and the potato-based aaloo pyaz with tomato, aromatic herbs, and spices. On Saturdays, pay homage to the extraordinary Achaar chicken—an entire bazaar in a bowl.

Most desserts will be familiar to fans of Indian food: frozen kulfi with saffron and pistachios; and kheer—the rice pudding also sporting saffron, pistachios, and almonds—stand out. Not so expected is the sweet masala paan, a blast of spice-market flavors wrapped in betel leaf. You won’t forget it.