Green is the only local restaurant that’s fully vegetarian and kosher, so if this congruence is a criterion, then go for it. Should the idea of supporting free-trade, free-range products and entering the restaurant through a kitchen garden appeal, then Green’s your guy. And if you’re either textured-vegetable-protein curious or fully committed to grilled vegetarian ham, same deal. But for a rewarding meat-free culinary experience, we would look elsewhere—say a South Indian restaurant.

Which is probably why lightly sautéed curly kale “salad” and quinoa tabbouleh were the stars of one meal; very good in their own right, they weren’t trying to be something else. “Buffalo tofu fingers,” on the other hand, were hot, bland, and chewy; “steak fingers” of crumbed and fried wheat meat strips nearly looked the part but were texturally unconvincing and almost flavor-free; and a main of textured vegetable protein carne guisada was scarily like the real thing, right down to the gritty dark gravy over-seasoned with cumin. Onion rings in soy batter are no less fried than conventional models but pass muster. We would nevertheless pass on “Chopped TVP BBQ” and “Neatloaf” in favor of, say, the deconstructed “Rainbow Salad”—but that’s just us.