Much of The Cove’s mystique is curb-appeal: the place includes a laundromat, a car wash, a music venue/bar…and a kids’ play area. Its funk factor, coupled with vegan night and the desire to serve organic greens, Texas grass-fed meats, and the like, has brought the burger and taco joint to the attention of the New York Times and the Food Channel. Its “Texas Burger” was rated best in the city by Texas Monthly, the lamb burger lauded by Guy Fieri…

There’s some truth to the burger bit. The “Blue Bison,” made from locally ranched meat and house-smoked bacon is spectacular in its orchestration of crisp bacon, pungent blue cheese, chipotle sauce, and a spot-on medium-rare patty. The bun disintegrates in short order. Never mind. The accompanying fries, however, are sub-par, a bowl of chicken poblano soup glutinous and strident, and, even less forgivable, the flagship vegan plate bombs.

Ordered: the S(ustainable) O(rganic) L(ocal) Sampler of local, roasted veggies; organic hummus; and whole wheat flat bread. Served: some marinated eggplant, a (never-roasted) vegetable and pasta salad with chewy rotini, bland hummus, and punitively planar flat bread. Details. Try a fish taco with an artisanal beer instead. Or take a look at the small but focused list of organic and sustainable wines from around the world; it’s bolstered by third-Thursday tastings every month.