Two things operate in favor of Copa—OK, maybe three. Or four. Anyway, the owners, Jeff and Angie Bridges are almost always there, and they truly seem to care; that’s one. Two, the wine list is huge, arranged mostly by varietal and covering nearly every known wine-growing region. (To pick nits, we would point out that there’s no Austrian, no Greek…) Three, there are nearly 100 wines by the glass, not to mention flights that don’t seem to be composed of leftovers. Four, there’s a surprisingly large selection of artisanal beers. And, oops, that makes five, the menu of tapas, panini, pizzette, and postres seems only to expand.

Except when it contracts, the exemplary albóndigas having been rotated out. Making up for missing meatballs are a tortilla española and hummus San-Antonio spiked with chipotle chiles. We also like the “Zeta” pizzetta with its cohort of “exotic” roasted mushrooms, shallot and garlic topped with chèvre. The cheese and charcuterie list is extensive, making for multiple pairing opportunities. Baguettes come from LA’s La Brea Bakery. Yes, there could be more comfortable seating, and things can get noisy, but in all this is a winner we wish were closer.