The dark foyer of the Hotel Valencia can seem an off-putting entry to the second floor setting of equally minimal Citrus. More inviting is the menu of chef Jeff Balfour, which uses regional foods in often-imaginative ways. Seared pork tenderloin, a favorite among the seasonal offerings, is served with a sweet-hot sauce of Texas peach and peppers. Also good are the judiciously dressed salads of greens from nearby Bluebonnet Hydroponics. Since this is a hotel restaurant, the day begins with a diverse breakfast buffet featuring the likes of jalapeño cheddar grits and lobster omelette.

Lunch is known for its award-winning paella, which is made to order with ingredients such as shrimp, artichokes, lobster, calamari, pork, and truffle oil. Dinner is offered both à-la-carte and prix-fixe fashion with a choice of three or four courses. If the menu descriptions are occasionally more exciting than the dishes themselves, on balance the chef’s hand shows through. Service, however, can be almost literally hit-or-miss, as on a couple of occasions waiters have become argumentative with diners.

Across the upstairs lobby is the swanky, though somewhat uncomfortable, Vbar; behind a rippling bead curtain it offers decent drinks for before or after dinner.