Where other restaurants have come and gone in the Boardwalk on Broadway, the Boardwalk Bistro has soldiered on by dint of its far-from-fashionable international menu, its almost-exemplary wine list (the Spanish selections are especially strong), its occasionally lively weekend entertainment and…well, we’re not sure what else. Perhaps inertia: San Antonio is famous for dogged faithfulness. In short, the place needs a reality-show makeover, tears and all.

While we await the transformation, here’s what to expect: an overdressed Caesar with underripe tomato and oddly inappropriate peppers. Another sorta-salad featuring fried dates stuffed with goat cheese and wrapped with prosciutto is more rewarding. And a signature lamb tagine is worthy of a Moroccan John Hancock. Dominated by fig and apricot, it’s served in the real thing and accompanied by Israeli couscous, pita, and an unusually sweet tzatziki. Other options with a global gloss include breast of duck with confit over risotto, eggplant parmesan “festooned with ratatouille-filled puff pastry” and a “Santorini Sampler” with, well, the usual. Portions are generous, but one is encouraged to finish or share; the punishment for not doing so is take-home in a bag imprinted with “have a nice day” and a large smiley face.