Dim Sum King is neck-and-neck with Hong Kong Dim Sum for best in show. Both places offer dim sum at all hours, and make it to order from your completed checklist. But where HK Dim Sum tends to feel like an unwelcoming human zoo, Dim Sum King (look for the small font beneath the looming “Police” sign) is cozier, and the service, comparatively speaking, is downright motherly. Parking is a real hassle, though; if there’s a wait, it will move fast.

The picture guide to the dim sum is not only a good crutch, but an encouragement to branch out with confidence. Keep an open mind, and you’ll find that the chicken feet (fung zau) here are tender, with a satisfying little gelatinous crunch; spare ribs (pai gwat) are worth the sticky fingers as you nibble your way around the well-spiced bits. Turnip cake (lo bak go) is good, if a bit flimsy, and sticky rice in lotus leaf (lo mai gai) gets that chewy exterior from steaming in metal, which we rather like (we have oral fixations, sue us). Dan tat (egg custard tarts) are better here than at HK Dim Sum, with doughy sesame-studded shells. Whatever you do, make sure you leave room for these.