This is just about our top place for Peking duck in the city. But you must call several hours in advance for it (one feeds about 3 people comfortably). It’s worth the extra trouble: this duck deconstruction team is deeply in tune with the process—which, when executed properly, as it is here, includes air-drying and slow roasting that produces extra-crispy, fatty skin ready to be sandwiched between somewhat stiff pancakes, with umami-sweet hoisin sauce, Napa cabbage, scallions, and bok choy. Bringing along a Chinese acquaintance helps; while the staff means well, nobody in the dining room tends to be fluent in English. Pointing at a menu probably won’t work either, as many of the descriptions are either spelled wrong or are missing important verbs or adjectives.

The duck is the be-all of the rather plain, tidy restaurant, but it’s not the end-all. Discreet flavors are not a forte of northern Chinese cuisine, and the flavors in soft, spicy marinated beef aren’t either, but its gelatinous, rendered tendons get just the right amount of spice and oiliness. Stir-fried spicy eggplant’s flecks of red pepper make it look hot, but a surprising sweetness balances the dish. And la pi (broad glass noodles) are some of the best around. Get some to distract your friends while you eat their share of duck.