Ah dim sum, that great divider. Everyone has a favorite, and this is it for a few of our panelists (the others declare Dim Sum King’s the best). There’s a hefty Malaysian menu as well, but we recommend saving that meal for Banana Leaf. Dim sum devotees will be delightfully surprised that there are no carts here—you order by checklist, so you’ll at least learn the Chinese names of those items you always had nicknames for (slimy pork bits = pai gwat; fluffy pig buns = char siu bao). This also means you have to flag down a server, which is actually a nice reprieve from being interrupted every ten seconds by an upsell wizard. In a shockingly rare move that we are quite fond of, tea is free of charge.

Har gao, whose dough-wrapped shrimp can get quite sticky as they cool on a cart, are especially good here. Chicken feet, too, benefit from coming piping hot, and stuffed eggplant is wonderful. Egg custard tarts aren’t a strong point here—these ones have a stale-hard pastry shell (stop by ECK Bakery for spectacular egg custard after your meal here). It’s nice that you can get dim sum any time of day or night, but come too close to closing and you’ll be unceremoniously rushed out, and gagging on the smell of cleaning fluids all the while.