Goat, Dungeness crab, and sea cucumber. This unlikely Incredible Journey remake takes place on the menu at Hong Kong Food Street, one of those classic Bellaire Chinatown palaces of live seafood, hot pot, and congee; of sizzling platters, Singapore noodles, and fried rice. Deciding what to order here can be daunting, but we’ll narrow it down for you: Cantonese. Go ahead and bypass anything with “Szechuan” in the name; it won’t be as peppercorny and chili-oil-spiked as the better Szechuan in town. Of course, Cantonese isn’t renowned for its love of salt and spice, and many dishes here attempt to adjust for American palates, but with mixed success.

Stick with the live seafood from the tanks: Hong Kong-style baked lobster and crab are reliable, as are their steamed preparations, served with glass noodles. Salted fish and pork with spinach is also a wonderful combination of briny, earthy, and lightly sweet—a subtle cruise to the many ports of the tongue. Fried rice with crab and fish roe is even more palate-pleasing, if more one-dimensional. Congee is great, warming comfort food for a post-drinking resuscitation, and HK Food Street has a rare gift for abalone. As for the goat? Leave it to the Mexicans and Indians and look simply to the sea.