This spruced-up and slightly elegant space is filled with large tables of mostly Chinese families drawn by authentic Cantonese cooking. On weekends, come early or be prepared to wait.

We like salted pork with dried shrimp, a rustic dish served on farms throughout China. Fish is a good bet here, especially deep fried in sweet corn sauce, or fried whole with a sauce that’s sweet, sour, and spicy. Roast duck is dry, and hot pots aren’t so stellar. Focus instead on salt-and-pepper squid; pork spare ribs, deep fried just right and topped with jalapeños, green onions, and garlic; and “house special chow mein,” a basket of fried egg noodles topped with your choice of meat and vegetables and a salty brown sauce.

Of the legitimate Chinese restaurants in Houston, East Wall seems to be more concerned about appealing to Americans; much of its staff speaks English, and menus employ helpful pictures. We’d argue that the only lamentable wall between cultures is the display of plastic-wrapped pieces of dried shark’s fin enclosed in a glass case. Perhaps the recently installed LCD display depicting a yellow bouncing smiley face is supposed to make us feel better.