Even die-hard Inner Loopers will make the pilgrimage to Pearland for Killen’s steaks. This kitchen turns out some of the best grilled meat in the Greater Houston area. The inside reminds us of a West Texas country club, with low ceilings giving a cozy vibe; still, it’s not exactly casual enough to ditch the cuff links and loosen up the belt. The polite, knowledgeable staff and expertly made martinis provide the polish that takes the edge off the astronomical bill.

Steaks here are a cut above—literally. A glorious long-bone Kobe ribeye is a sweeping piece of architecture whose each bite releases a mouthful of unctuous, beefy flavor. It stays with you the way a great book does (at $98, it had better). An aggressively seasoned dry-aged New York strip is best ordered medium-rare, expertly seared with a crusty edge and warm, ruby-red center. Sides follow suit, like the sweetly grassy haricots verts with shallots, restrained creamed corn, and luscious mac and cheese.

Don’t waste room on overdressed salads and oversauced starters. Save it instead for dessert, which includes an exalted crème brûlée bread pudding, a brick of buttery, eggy indulgence invigorated by apple chutney. The wine list offers very little stylistic variation; but then, all this char and fat and beef really loves a big, blousy New World juice. Nothing goes better with excess than excess.