Perhaps because of its unique caché of oilmen entertaining out-of-town clients and Astros admirers after the game, Vic and Anthony’s is one of the only places downtown where you can show up after 9pm and find tables still full of people. It’s a nice feeling, at that Houstonian witching hour, to not be eating alone—even if the bulk of the patrons here are not Houstonians. But service is a little amateurish for a place of this caliber; if you’re the last table and your bill is less than about $500, you’ll be unceremoniously ushered into a rapid dinner.

Although the concept is certainly corporate, with three private event rooms, the regular interior is warm and inviting, in that cookie-cutter, dark-wood, lobbyist sort of way. The noise level is comfortably high, providing a nice din but nothing you have to shout over. Amidst a city full of large-chain steakhouses, we have a soft spot for Vic & Anthony’s.

Crab cakes here are touted as the best in Texas, and this might be the rare occasion on which we agree with such a boast. They’re full of lump crabmeat, with virtually no bread crumbs, and the accompanying chive beurre blanc is an exemplary counterpoint. At just under $16, they may not be cheap, but neither is lump crabmeat. The classic wedge salad is heavy on blue cheese lumps and could use more cream, although shredded carrots add a pleasant sweetness. Sides are kept simple; you won’t find anything overambitious, just steakhouse standards like world-class creamed spinach, rich, smooth, and bursting with nutmeg flavor. Potatoes au gratin are good, especially if you like copious quantities of cheese.

On to the main event: the Prime steaks. Bone-in ribeye (off the menu but usually available) has a tang to it that’s unusual in wet-aged (not dry-aged) steak. It’s a wonderful piece of meat, marbled beautifully, melting in the mouth at medium-rare. A Porterhouse for two can easily be overcooked around the edges—even ordered rare plus, some parts are borderline medium-well. A quicker sear and slower secondary heat might have fixed this. Still, the flavor is there. All are served sizzling hot in a pool of butter, and are often the best steaks in town.

The regionally diverse wine list is a tome of status-symbol names in the thousands and many more in the hundreds. It’s a challenge, but not impossible, to find a good wine on this menu for less than $60. But you’ve got to take your lobbyist profit somewhere.

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