Vic & Anthony’s maintains the very best of its genre (warm, dark-wooded décor; high-class clubby feeling; and pervasive sizzling-beef aroma) while finding admirable motivation to not rest on its laurels. Its crab cakes have to be the best in Texas, full of sweet lump crabmeat with virtually no filler, and accompanied brilliantly by a chive beurre blanc. Sides are simple but extremely well prepared, and often with a little something extra to distinguish them from their ilk (why, is that nutmeg in the creamed spinach?).

Steaks are Prime and wet-aged, but somehow manage the concentrated beefiness and tanginess associated with dry-ageing. Bone-in ribeye (when available) is marbled beautifully, melting in the mouth at medium-rare. Larger cuts, like a Porterhouse for two, can be more unevenly cooked, but the flavor is there—helped, no doubt, by a pool of bubbling butter. Have a thick, juicy burger in the lounge, or in the dining room on Fridays; the bloom-rinded blue cheese on the “Anthony” is surprisingly complemented by a touch of balsamic vinaigrette coating the lettuce leaves. Crispy and endless onion strings fare better than mealy fries.

There are craft-brewery tastings now and then—another rarity among steakhouses; not so rare is an epic wine list of status-symbol names. Still, you can find a memorable and personality-driven bottle for around $70, especially if you venture beyond our borders. Ask the knowledgeable staff for guidance.