Gigi’s—with its vainglorious cherry blossoms, peacock-blue velvet barstools with gold fringe, indirect lighting and pompous, heavy curtains—is the last place purists expect to find a fantastic dumpling. But the steamed dumplings are where it’s at: their delicate wrappers conceal a flavorful and complex filling of pork, crab, and green onions. These are obviously made with a great deal of care and time. Pan-fried dumplings, on the other hand, are hard to get right—in fact, they may be the one dumpling type you have to get from a tiny hole in the wall, as they just can’t be one of 20 dishes simultaneously working in the kitchen. Gigi’s are dry and mealy, with not enough crunch on the outside. On weekends, though, they’re all you can eat. The rest of the menu yields mixed results: the most expensive item, Chilean sea bass with stir-fried vegetables, comes dry and overcooked, then smothered in a salty sauce. Steamed mussels come in an addictive (if too-sweet) green curry.

Gigi’s also surprises with a small wine list of varietals most appropriate for Southeast Asian food, like Riesling and Grüner Veltliner, as well as some good sakes. Sure, you’ll pay a little extra for everything, but then, you’re dining in the Galleria, so that’s not exactly a surprise, is it?